Written by: Paul Theroux
First line: The one wild story that everyone believed about Joe Sharkey was not true, but this was often the case with big-wave riders.
Why you should read this book: Joe Sharkey had some rough moments in childhood, but his adulthood has been a series of glittering, golden satisfactions, built upon his achievements as a champion surfer in the eighties and nineties. Now happily retired from competition, comfortably wealthy, and pleasantly famous, he spends his days in the bliss of the big waves, every day brilliantly and beautifully perfect, until one day, when the sixty-two-year-old Joe Sharkey experiences his first less-than-perfect day in a long time. The aftermath might destroy him, or, with the guidance and encouragement of a very understanding woman, the way he handles tragedy might lead him to a new quest: something bigger and better and longer-lasting than the next big wave.
Why you shouldn't read this book: Your father was career military, his father was career military, you're career military, and you can't imagine any scenario in which your child might choose some other life path.
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